Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
